The length of your waistband should match the waist contour on your skirt. Remember to leave a couple of extra cm for seam allowance.
The width of the waistband can be about 6 cm, seam allowance included.
I recommend making this piece in a thin fabric even if it is not the same as the skirt fabric. It is hidden so it will not be seen. It is also advisable to use a thin interfacing.
Depending on whether or not the fabric is very stiff you can cut the rectangle straight or on the bias.
Press the rectangle in half so that the fold is marked. Then turn it the other way along the marked fold so that it ends up right to right. Stitch to seam allowance.
Repeat the same on the other end.
Cut the excess fabric in the corner so that it does not bulge when the fabric is turned. Turn the fabric over and iron the piece well.
Now you have two options. You can either use the overlock on the waistline of the skirt and waistband separately and then sew both pieces together or you can first sew the two pieces together and then use the overlock on both pieces at the same time.
The waistband piece should be placed on top of the waistline of the skirt. Carefully align both pieces right sides together so that the contours match. Pin both pieces together.
Once the pieces are correctly positioned, stitch to seam allowance. Then edgestitch over the waistband.
Turn the facing to the inside of the skirt and press it.
Finally, sew the ends of the waistband by hand. Take the opportunity to hide the inner part of the zipper that you have used when sewing the skirt.
To prevent the waistband from turning outwards, you can secure it with a couple of hand stitches on the sides of the skirt.
See you soon!